Thursday, August 22, 2013

The tackiest thing in the world/Getting on Chinese TV

Well, after a night we wouldn't forget, or at least had thought so through most of it at the time, we got up groggy, a little bit drunk still, and way later than the bus to Qinghai Lake was supposed to have left Our Mississippi Bluesman and I sat down to two bowls of granola, which we ordered because we figured they'd probably come with spoons. Sure enough they did, and right after we were done, I treated everybody at the hostel with a vigorous bout of solo spoon music, which I played right on out the door, and that's how I got some new spoons to play at tonight's concert.
The poets were all staying at a resort by the Yellow River about two hours outside of Qinghai lake, somewhere off in Qinghai province. We were so late getting out the door it turned out, we had not only missed the bus to Qinghai Lake, but if we were to hire a car to get to Qinghai Lake, everybody else would probably have left already to get to the resort, so we went straight there.
Now, that meant we had about two hours to practice our music at the resort. I wish I could show you some pictures right here of this resort, because it was something else. Why there was a big marble lobby with big Chinese vases and the like in the middle of a huge campus, but the sign only had three stars on it.
Here in China, rating hotels and resorts works very much like it does in the U.S., except in China, I suppose they're a little more lenient about the presence of fiberglass squirrel and panda sculptures deteriorating in the glass. This place hadn't had business in years. The swimming pool was not only drained, but slowly turning into a terrarium, despite neatly swept decks. The lawns were lush and freshly mowed, but the exercise course was rusty and poorly painted. The greenhouse was full of weeds. Also nobody was there but us and five staff members. Three of them were sitting out back eating sunflower seeds out of an actual sunflower, watching kung fu movies. They gave me a huge sunflower and invited me to watch kung fu movies with them. It was a strange place to have a poetry conference, and something of a change from the luxurious five star Qinghai Hotel we'd performed in the day before. I wish I could have shown you some pictures, but despite my dedication to charging my camera battery the previous night, the charger had somehow not made it all the way into the wall.
Yet, the river was beautiful   Here are our Mississippi Bluesman and our Poet setting up for an interview after a brief dispute with our Wiz Kid Videographer who only wanted to interview the Bluesman in this beautiful spot and had to be reminded whose project this was.

Where were we to perform? We were to perform at Guide, the site of the worlds largest prayer wheel! The site actually holds two simultaneous world records: the largest prayer wheel in the world, and the tackiest thing in the world!
Here it is folks, over 200 tons of spray painted metal, about three stories tall on top of a large concrete plinth before a glorious reflecting pool festooned with vibrantly colored plastic flowers. Once the sun went down, the spotlights went up into the sky and the LAZER LIGHTSHOW LIGHTS turned on!!! This prayer wheel has nothing to do with the monks, it is sponsored by a real estate firm.




But what a stage for us to play on! The stage was IN THE REFLECTING POOL! Mississippi Bluesman, Alex Wand performing with Wang Ping, the poet. Our Mississippi Bluesman had to concentrate very hard to impress the crowd and could only allow our Poet, the leader of the project a couple minutes on stage at a time.
The crowd loved us! I played the spoons. I played the spoons so hard we made it on Chinese television!!


And it was here that my camera died.

Saturday, August 17, 2013

Partying with Tibetan celebrities, and how I lost my spoons

First off, I apologize sincerely for the silence on the blog. It's just been too darn busy. These next couple entries should be a real treat for you all though, so hang in there!

After we left Lhasa, our next stop was the Qinghai Lake International Poetry Festival. There were poets there from China. There were poets there from the U.S. There were poets there from India. There were poets there from Argentina. There were poets there from Hungary. There were poets there from Spain. You name it, they had it! Everyone you met was either a famous poet or a journalist documenting the thing. I asked everyone I met if they were a famous poet. They asked me if I was a poet at all, and I said, why yes I was, would you like to hear a poem of mine? Then I read an unprintably vulgar poem I wrote. Only He Zhong thought it was funny.

They sure had some famous poets reading at the festival, too. Name your favorite international contemporary poet, and I bet she was there too! Everyone was there! They even had this guy! No need telling you who he is:


And here's a guy who needs no introduction. These are the pre-festival speeches by the way. There were nine hours of straight speeches! Everybody liked this guy's speech the best because it was only thirty seconds long.

The speeches were plumb fascinating. All nine hours of them

This was the real deal folks. The place was crawling with reporters, photographers, videographers, documentarians, cameramen -- just about everything but bona fide audience members.



Our Mississippi Bluesman Alex Wand got invited on to play a couple of his Mississippi Blues songs. Our Mississippi Bluesman rockin' out.




Everybody just loved it, not only because the music was so good, but also because he didn't give a single speech. Right here in this picture is just about half the audience. The other half had their tripods set up behind us.



After all the speeches were out of the way, it was time for the banquet! That was the real reason everybody came. Lots of good food, and free refills of Tibetan barley wine! Here we are with poets Lu Eean, and Yu Jian, some personal friends of our Famous Poet, Wang Ping.

The food was good, that Tibetan barley wine was really good, but the entertainment was lousy. The lineup for tonight? More speeches. Downing the rest of the carafe of barley wine, Mustachioed Tibetan poet He Zhong promished to take us to where the real party was at. Next thing we knew we were driving off into someone's Hummer. This guy sure knew how to drive a Hummer. Traffic jam? No problem, we'd just roll right onto the sidewalk and drive around the whole thing. I rode in the trunk.

Who owned the Hummer? (You don't see too many Hummers in Xining.) This guy! He's one of Tibet's most famous singers! He drank an entire bottle of Tibetan barley wine all by himself!

And oh boy could he sing!

Here he is rocking the fuck out with Mississippi Bluesman Alex Wand. You can't see me in these photos because I was too busy taking the pictures to be in any myself, but in between photos I was banging out some wicked rhythms on the spoons!





Wang Ping, the Poet dancing flamenco

This girl? Another famous Tibetan singer. Her songs kept on coming up on the radio! Alex Wand, getting pretty cozy with the famous Tibetan singer.

We kept seeing her posters around town!

He Zhong, the mustachioed Tibetan poet. What eyebrows!

 He Zhong just kept pouring us drinks

And more drinks

And more drinks

And more drinks

He Zhong, ladies and gentlemen. I just couldn't stop taking pictures of that mustache. What a guy!

Well, needless to say, the beer kept on pouring and we all got pretty shwasted. Except for Alex who got rip-roaring sober.

See that girl on the far left, almost out of the frame? (That's the best picture I've got.) As I was walking back from the bathroom, she took my hand, lead me away to a bench around back of some bushes and kissed me! Well, I was pretty thrilled, and once I got back to the table, I stopped hitting on the girl second to the left and started cozying right up to the girl who kissed me, when our Wiz Kid Videographer Alex Howard grabbed me by the arm to take me for a walk -- that girl was somebody's wife! Things were getting awkward.
Well, we decided the best thing to do would be to take a stroll around the premises and wait for things to cool off. On that stroll of ours, who should we run into but some nice Chinese guy, all smiles and high fives, drunk as a skunk. I tried teaching him a couple fancy high-fives and handshakes, and he kept on trying to get us to come with him to whatever party he was at, and I was tryna convince him to come to the party we were at, when all of a sudden, Alex Howard, the Wiz Kid Videographer, rip-roaring sober just bolted.
"I think we lost him," says the Wiz Kid Videographer when I catch up with him. That we did. And ourselves. And my spoons had fallen out of my pocket somewhere along the way. Somehow we made it back.

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

How things are sold in China. Why???

Can anyone with any knowledge of economics explain the way commercial real estate works in China to me? We found this straight up baffling. See these stores?
Every single one is a cell phone store, and it's like that for blocks. On the other side of the street as well:

Now, I've got some basic knowledge of economics. I can understand that the best place to open up a bar is right next door to another bar. The best place to open up an apparel shop is right next to another one, and that's because people like to shop around, go to one establishment, then go to another similar one, etc, and that's convenient when they're right next to each other. They do this sort of thing in China, too, but they take to the extent that every cell phone store sells the exact same thing as every other cell phone store in the whole cell phone district. Now, can someone tell me how more than one store stays in business?

China is a country with no copyright laws and rampant fraud. Branding means nothing here, and often knockoff products don't even try. Take these "Gaxlay S4" phones for instance, running an "Adnroid" operating system.

For a slightly higher price you can buy a "Galxay" series phone.

Samsung's already up to making the Galaxy S13 here in China.

This is how meat is sold in one of the more respectable meat-selling establishments.

A shot from the shoe-selling district in Lhasa. Every store nearby has the same merchandise.

Lhasa was great. We'll miss it. The air here smelled like sage, Buddhists were praying everywhere, and everything was beautiful.

Monday, August 5, 2013

Sneaking our Poet onto Mount Everest

Remember how a certain Poet in our group was having trouble getting a permit to go to Mount Everest? Well, that never actually got worked out. Turns out some people can get away with walking right by the military guards at all the checkpoints, no problem. Who knew?

Ever wonder why all the mountains in the Himalayas except for Mount Everest seem to have, well, Himalayan sounding names? Well, it turns out that the Himalayan people already had a name for Mount Everest before the Brits came through and decided it should be called Mount Everest! Here in Tibet they call it Mount Qomolangma. Crazy stuff.

Here's some selfies from the bottom of the mountain.


Here's the group


Here's a guy who tried to bum a cigarette off of us when we stopped on the way from Shigatze, then walked away when no one had one.


Here's our Poet taking a picture of him walking away.

Lil' house in the Himalayas

 After we went through the first check point and scooped up our Wandering Poet, we hit some of the bumpiest roads on the planet. But the views were something else.


Prayer flags at the top of the mountain with the placard that taught us that the real name for Mount Everest was Mount Qomolangma

It's the big white one behind the clouds.



Big A, thrilled to be having his photo taken by the aforementioned placard.

 This kid rolled up on his motorbike blasting Gangnam Style. This is what a cool kid Tibetan looks like.



These Land Cruisers were the perfect thing for tackling roads under such poor conditions, sailing right over the bumps and potholes like freshly paved road. We didn't ride in one. We rode in a big clunky van of Chinese manufacture with no suspension system to speak of.

Some hot geological features


Right here was about where our bumpity old van got a flat tire.

There it is! Or maybe it's just another snowy mountain with clouds at the top. We weren't keeping very good tabs on these things.

 Changing the tire.

Now that's one quaint little bridge.


 And HERE

IT

IS!
Now that's at least the tallest mountain I've ever seen. The locals said today was the first day in weeks it was clear enough to see the peak.

Which you could still see at night.

And

in the
 morning too!

And here's a drawing I made during the 10 minutes the Army guys let us hang out and look at the mountain before we had to go back to the bus.


Some bonus shots:


The tent we stayed in. 

This guy took the photos of us in the beginning of this blog post. I haven't even heard of the old Ork!